WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE
COASTS AND RIVERS
EXPLORED AND SURVEYED DURING THE
VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BEAGLE, IN THE YEARS 1837- 38- 39- 40- 41- 42- 43
by COMMAND OF THE
LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY.
Also
A NARRATIVE OF
CAPTAIN OWEN STANLEY'S VISITS TO
THE ISLANDS IN THE ARAFURA SEA. by
J. LORT STOKES, COMMANDER, R.N.
VOLUMES 1 and 2
1846.
-------------------------------------------------
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Admiral John Lort Stokes (1812 - June 11,
1885) was an officer in the Royal Navy who travelled on the HMS Beagle for
almost 18 years. Stokes grew up in Scotchwell near Haverfordwest,
Pembrokeshire. He joined the Navy on September 20, 1824. The first ship he
served on was the HMS Prince Regent, then in October 1825 he joined the crew
of the Beagle under Captain Philip Parker King. The Beagle was involved in a
survey of the waters of South America, in 1828 the commander of the HMS
Beagle, Pringle Stokes (not related to John Lort Stokes) passed away and
Robert FitzRoy assumed command, the ship returned to England in 1830 and was
recommissioned and from 1831 to 1836 Stokes was onboard with Charles Darwin.
Following the second voyage of the Beagle Stokes was promoted to the rank of
lieutenant, and served under Commander John Clements Wickham for a survey of
Australasian waters. When Wickham was invalided in 1841, Stokes took charge
of the ship. While Stokes was in command the Beagle surveyed Timor and New
Zealand, returning to England in 1843. When he returned he wrote Discoveries
in Australia, with an account of the coasts and rivers explored and surveyed
during the voyage of the Beagle, 1837–1843, it was published in 1846.

CONTENTS OF
VOLUME 1.
CHAPTER 1.1.
INTRODUCTION.
Objects of the Voyage.
The Beagle commissioned.
Her former career.
Her first Commander.
Instructions from the Admiralty and the Hydrographer.
Officers and Crew.
Arrival at Plymouth.
Embark Lieutenants Grey and Lushington's Exploring Party.
Chronometric Departure.
Farewell glance at Plymouth.
Death of King William the Fourth.
CHAPTER 1.2.
PLYMOUTH TO BAHIA.
Sail from Plymouth.
The Eight Stones.
Peak of Tenerife.
Approach to Santa Cruz.
La Cueva de Los Guanches.
Trade with Mogadore.
Intercourse between Mogadore and Mombas.
Reason to regret Mombas having been given up.
Sail from Tenerife.
Search for rocks near the equator.
Arrival at San Salvador.
Appearance of Bahia.
State of the Country.
Slave Trade.
And results of Slavery.
Extension of the Slave Trade on the eastern coast of Africa.
Moral condition of the Negroes.
Middy's Grave.
Departure from Bahia.
Mr. "Very Well Dice".
CHAPTER 1.3. FROM
THE CAPE TO SWAN RIVER.
A gale.
Anchor in Simon's Bay.
H.M.S. Thalia.
Captain Harris, and his Adventures in Southern Africa.
Proceedings of the Land Party.
Leave Simon's Bay.
An overloaded ship.
Heavy weather and wet decks.
Island of Amsterdam.
Its true longitude.
St. Paul's.
Water.
Westerly variation.
Rottnest Island.
Gage's Road.
Swan River Settlement.
Fremantle.
An inland lake.
Plans for the future.
Illness of Captain Wickham.
Tidal Phenomena.
Perth.
Approach to it.
Narrow escape of the first settlers.
The Darling Range.
Abundant Harvest.
Singular flight of strange birds.
Curious Cliff near Swan River.
Bald Head.
Mr. Darwin's Theory.
The Natives.
Miago.
Anecdotes of Natives.
Their Superstitions.
Barbarous traditions, their uses and their lessons.
CHAPTER 1.4. FROM
SWAN RIVER TO ROEBUCK BAY.
Sail from Gage's Road.
Search for a bank.
Currents and soundings.
Houtman's Abrolhos.
Fruitless search for Ritchie's Reef.
Indications of a squall.
Deep sea soundings.
Atmospheric Temperature.
Fish.
A squall.
Anchor off the mouth of Roebuck Bay.
A heavy squall.
Driven from our anchorage.
Cape Villaret.
Anchor in Roebuck Bay.
Excursion on shore.
Visit from the Natives.
Mr. Bynoe's account of them.
A stranger among them.
Captain Grey's account of an almost white race in Australia.
Birds, Snakes, and Turtle.
Move the Ship.
Miago, and the Black Fellows.
The wicked men of the North.
Clouds of Magellan.
Face of the Country.
Natives.
Heat and Sickness.
Miago on shore.
Mr. Usborne wounded.
Failure in Roebuck Bay.
Native notions.
CHAPTER 1.5. FROM
ROEBUCK BAY TO SKELETON POINT.
Departure from Roebuck Bay.
Appearance of the Country.
Progress to the northward.
Hills and Cliffs.
French Names and French Navigators.
Tasman, and his account of the Natives.
Hazeygaeys and Assagais.
His Authenticity as an Historian.
Description of the Natives.
Marks and mutilations.
Phrenological Development.
Moral condition.
Proas, Canoes, and Rafts.
Another squall.
Anchor in Beagle Bay.
Face of the Country.
Palm Trees.
Dew.
Hauling the Seine.
A meeting with Natives.
Eastern Salutation.
Miago's conduct towards, and opinion of, his countrymen.
Mutilation of the Hand.
Native smokes seen.
Move further to the North-East.
Point Emeriau.
Cape Leveque.
Point Swan.
Tide-races.
Search for water.
Encountered by Natives.
Return to the Ship.
The attempt renewed.
Conduct of the Natives.
Effect of a Congreve Rocket after dark.
A successful haul.
More Natives.
Miago's Heroism.
The plague of Flies.
Dampier's description of it.
Native Habitations.
Underweigh.
Wind and weather.
Tidal Phenomenon.
Natural History.
Singular Kangaroo.
Bustard.
Cinnamon Kangaroo.
Quails.
Goanas and Lizards.
Ant Hills.
Fishing over the side.
A day in the Bush.
A flood of fire.
Soil and Productions.
White Ibis.
Curious Tree.
Rain water.
Geology of the Cliffs.
Weigh, and graze a Rock, or Touch and go.
The Twins.
Sunday Strait.
Roe's Group.
Miago and his friends.
A black dog.
A day of rest.
Native raft.
Captain King and the Bathurst.
A gale.
Point Cunningham.
Successful search for water.
Native estimation of this fluid.
Discovery of a Skeleton.
And its removal.
The grey Ibis.
Our parting legacy.
CHAPTER 1.6.
POINT CUNNINGHAM TO FITZROY RIVER.
Survey the Coast to Point
Cunningham.
Move the Ship.
Mosquitoes.
Southern View of King's Sound.
Singular vitreous Formation.
Move to the south of Point Cunningham.
Captain King's limit.
Termination of Cliffy Range.
Disaster Bay.
An Exploring Party leave in the boats.
The shore.
A freshwater lake.
Valentine Island.
Native Fire and Food.
A heavy squall.
The wild Oat.
Indications of a River.
Point Torment.
Gouty-stem Tree and Fruit.
Limits of its growth.
Another squall.
Water nearly fresh alongside.
The Fitzroy River.
Tide Bore and dangerous position of the Yawl.
Ascent of the Fitzroy.
Appearance of the adjacent land.
Return on foot.
Perilous situation and providential escape.
Survey the western shore.
Return to the Ship.
Sporting, Quail and Emus.
Natives.
Ship moved to Point Torment.
CHAPTER 1.7. THE
FITZROY RIVER TO PORT GEORGE THE FOURTH, AND RETURN TO SWAN RIVER.
Examination of the Fitzroy
River.
Excursion into the interior.
Alarm of the Natives.
Ascent of the River.
Sufferings from Mosquitoes.
Red Sandstone.
Natives again surprised.
Appearance of the Country.
Impediments in the River.
Return of the boats.
An Alligator.
Stokes' Bay.
Narrow escape of an Officer.
Change of Landscape.
Pheasant-Cuckoos.
A new Vine.
Compass Hill.
Port Usborne.
Explore the eastern shore of King's Sound.
Cone Bay.
Native Fires.
Whirlpool Channel.
Group of Islands.
Sterile aspect of the Coast.
Visited by a Native.
Bathurst Island.
Native Hut and Raft.
Return to Port Usborne.
Native Spears.
Cascade Bay.
Result of Explorations in King's Sound.
Interview with Natives.
Coral Reefs.
Discover Beagle Bank.
Arrival at Port George the Fourth.
Examination of Collier Bay in the boats.
Brecknock Harbour.
The Slate Islands.
Freshwater Cove.
An Eagle shot.
Its singular nest.
Rock Kangaroos.
A Conflagration.
Sandstone Ridges.
Doubtful Bay.
Mouth of the Glenelg.
Remarkable Tree.
Fertile Country near Brecknock Harbour.
Return to the Ship.
Meet with Lieutenant Grey.
His sufferings and discoveries.
Visit the Encampment.
Timor Ponies.
Embarkation of Lieutenant Grey's Party.
Sail from Port George the Fourth.
Remarks on position of Tryal Rock.
Anecdotes of Miago.
Arrival at Swan River.
Directions for entering Owen's Anchorage.
CHAPTER 1.8. SWAN
RIVER TO SYDNEY.
Miago's reception by his
countrymen.
Whale Fishery.
Strange ideas entertained by Natives respecting the first Settlers.
Neglected state of the Colony.
Test security of Owen's Anchorage.
Weather.
Celebration of the Anniversary of the Colony.
Friendly meeting between different Tribes.
Native beggars.
Personal vanity of a Native.
Visit York.
Description of Country.
Site of York.
Scenery in its neighbourhood.
Disappointment experienced.
Sail from Swan River.
Hospitality of Colonists during our stay.
Aurora Australis.
Gale off Cape Leeuwen.
Stormy passage.
Ship on a lee shore.
South-west Cape of Tasmania.
Bruny Island Lighthouse.
Arrive at Hobart.
Mount Wellington.
Kangaroo Hunt.
White Kangaroo.
Civility from the Governor.
Travertine Limestone.
Leave Hobart.
Singular Current.
Appearance of Land in the neighbourhood of Sydney.
Position of Lighthouse.
Entrance and first view of Port Jackson.
Scenery on passing up the Harbour.
Meet the Expedition bound to Port Essington.
Apparent increase of Sydney.
Cause of Decline.
Expedition sails for Port Essington.
Illawarra.
Botany Bay.
La Perouse's Monument.
Aborigines.
Meet Captain King.
Appearance of Land near Sydney.
CHAPTER 1.9. BASS
STRAIT.
Leave Sydney.
Enter Bass Strait.
Island at Eastern entrance.
Wilson's Promontory.
Cape Shanck.
Enter Port Phillip.
Tide-race.
Commence Surveying Operations.
First Settlement.
Escaped Convict.
His residence with the Natives.
Sail for King Island.
Examine Coast to Cape Otway.
King Island.
Meet Sealers on New Year Islands.
Franklin Road.
Solitary Residence of Captain Smith.
Soil.
Advantageous position for a Penal Settlement.
Leafless appearance of Trees.
Examine West Coast.
Fitzmaurice Bay.
Stokes' Point.
Seal Bay.
Geological Formation.
Examine Coast to Sea Elephant Rock.
Brig Rock.
Cross the Strait to Hunter Island.
Strong Tide near Reid's Rocks.
Three Hummock Island.
Rats.
The Black Pyramid.
Point Woolnorth.
Raised Beach.
Coast to Circular Head.
Headquarters of the Agricultural Company.
Capture of a Native.
Mouth of the Tamar River.
Return to Port Phillip.
West Channel.
Yarra-yarra River.
Melbourne.
Custom of Natives.
Manna.
Visit Geelong.
Station Peak.
Aboriginal Names.
South Channel.
Examine Western Port.
Adventure with a Snake.
Black Swans.
Cape Patterson.
Deep Soundings.
Revisit King and Hunter Islands.
Fire.
Circular Head.
Gales of Wind.
Reid's Rocks.
Sea Elephant Rock.
Wild Dogs.
Navarin and Harbinger Reefs.
Arrive at Port Phillip.
Sail for Sydney.
Pigeon House.
Drought.
Mr. Usborne leaves.
CHAPTER 1.10.
SYDNEY TO PORT ESSINGTON.
Leave Sydney.
Gale and Current.
Port Stephens.
Tahlee.
River Karuah.
Stroud.
Wild Cattle.
Incivility of a Settler.
River Allyn.
Mr. Boydell.
Cultivation of Tobacco.
A clearing Lease.
William River.
Crossing the Karuah at Night.
Sail from Port Stephens.
Breaksea Spit.
Discover a Bank.
Cape Capricorn.
Northumberland Isles.
Sandalwood.
Cape Upstart.
Discover a River.
Raised Beach.
Section of Barrier Reef.
Natives.
Plants and Animals.
Magnetical Island.
Halifax Bay.
Height of Cordillera.
Fitzroy Island.
Hope Island.
Verifying Captain King's Original Chart.
Cape Bedford.
New Geological Feature.
Lizard Island.
Captain Cook.
Barrier and Reefs within.
Howick Group.
Noble Island.
Cape Melville.
Reef near Cape Flinders.
Princess Charlotte's Bay.
Section of a detached Reef.
Tide at Claremont Isles.
Restoration Island.
Islands fronting Cape Grenville.
Boydan Island.
Correct Chart.
Tides.
Cairncross Island.
Escape River.
Correct position of Reefs.
York Isles.
Tides.
Torres Strait.
Endeavour Strait.
Booby Island.
Remarks on Barrier and its contiguous Islands and Reefs.
Cape Croker and reef off it.
Discover error in longitude of Cape.
Reefs at the mouth of Port Essington.
Arrive at the latter.
CHAPTER 1.11.
Port Essington.
Bearings from shoals in the Harbour.
Appearance of the Settlement.
Meet Captain Stanley.
Church.
Point Record.
Prospects of the Settlement.
Buffaloes escape.
Fence across neck of Peninsula.
Lieutenant P.B. Stewart explores the Country.
Natives.
Uses of Sand.
Tumuli-building Birds.
Beautiful Opossum.
Wild Bees.
Escape from an Alligator.
Result of Astronomical Observations.
Geological Formation.
Raffles Bay.
Leave Port Essington.
Popham Bay.
Detect error in position of Port Essington.
Melville Island.
Discover a Reef in Clarence Strait.
Cape Hotham.
Native Huts and Clothing.
Geological Formation.
Discover the Adelaide River.
Interview with Natives.
Attempt to come on board.
Messrs. Fitzmaurice and Keys nearly speared.
Exploration of the Adelaide.
Its capabilities.
Wood-ducks.
Vampires.
Another party ascends the Adelaide.
Meet Natives.
Canoes.
Alligator.
Visit Melville Island.
Green Ants.
Thoughts of taking ship up Adelaide abandoned.
Tides in Dundas Strait.
Return to Port Essington.
Theatricals.
H.M.S. Pelorus arrives with Provisions.
Further remarks on the Colony.
CHAPTER 1.12.
Leave Port Essington.
Reach Timor Laut.
Meet Proas.
Chief Lomba.
Traces of the Crew of the Charles Eaton.
Their account of the wreck and sojourn on the Island.
Captain King's account of the Rescue of the Survivors.
Boy Ireland's relation of the sufferings and massacre of the Crew.
Appearance of the shores of Timor Laut.
Description of the Inhabitants.
Dress.
Leprosy.
Canoes.
Village of Oliliet.
Curious Houses.
Remarkable Ornaments.
Visit the Oran Kaya.
Burial Islet.
Supplies obtained.
Gunpowder in request as Barter.
Proceed to the Arru Islands.
Dobbo Harbour.
Trade.
Present to Chief.
Birds of Paradise.
Chinaming Junks' bottoms.
Character of Natives.
Some of them profess Christianity.
Visit the Ki Islands.
Village of Ki Illi.
How protected.
Place of Worship.
Pottery.
Timber.
Boat-building.
Cultivation of the eastern Ki.
No anchorage off it.
Visit Ki Doulan.
Antique Appearance of.
Luxuriant Vegetation.
Employment of Natives.
Defences of the place.
Carvings on gateway.
Civility of Chief.
His Dress.
Population of the Ki Group.
Their Religion.
Trade.
Place of Interment.
Agility of Australian Native.
Supplies.
Anchorage off Ki Doulan.
Island of Vordate.
Visit from Chief.
Excitement of Natives.
Their Arms and Ornaments.
Carved Horns on Houses.
Alarm of the Oran Kaya.
Punishment of the Natives of Laarat by the Dutch.
Revisit Oliliet.
Discover that Mr. Watson had rescued the European Boy.
Return to Port Essington.
Mr. Watson's Proceedings at Timor Laut.
APPENDIX.
List of Birds, collected by
the Officers of H.M.S. Beagle.
Descriptions of Six Fish. By Sir John Richardson. M.D., F.R.S. etc.
Descriptions of some New Australian Reptiles. By J.E. Gray, Esquire
F.R.S. etc.
Descriptions of new or unfigured Species of Coleoptera from Australia.
By Adam White, Esquire M.E.S.
Descriptions of some new or imperfectly characterized Lepidoptera from
Australia. By E. Doubleday, Esquire
LIST OF CHARTS.
VOLUME 1.
GENERAL CHART OF
AUSTRALIA.
BASS STRAIT.
ARAFURA SEA.
LIST OF
ILLUSTRATIONS.
VOLUME 1.
NATIVES OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA.
I.R. Fitzmaurice del.
SOUTH BRANCH OF THE ALBERT RIVER.
NATIVE HABITATION.
SINGULAR TAIL OF KANGAROO.
ROCKS ON ROE'S GROUP.
NATIVE RAFT.
KILEYS OF KING SOUND AND SWAN RIVER.
SUBSTANTIAL NATIVE HUT.
SPEARS OF KING SOUND AND SWAN RIVER.
MONUMENT TO LA PEROUSE.
CIRCULAR HEAD.
REID'S ROCKS, KING ISLAND AND THE BLACK PYRAMID.
SECTION OF THE NORTH-EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA, AND GREAT BARRIER REEF.
NORTH-WEST PART OF MAGNETIC ISLAND.
MOUNT HINCHINBROOK.
SECTION OF A DETACHED CORAL REEF.
RUSH SHOULDER-COVERING OF NATIVES.
VICTORIA FROM THE ANCHORAGE.
NATIVE TOWN OF OLILIET.
FISHES.
BALISTES PHALERATUS.
CRISTICEPS AXILLARIS.
SCORPAENA STOKESII.
SMARIS POROSUS.
CHELMON MARGINALIS.
ASSICULUS PUNCTATUS.
REPTILES.
SILUBOSAURUS STOKESII.
EGERNIA CUNNINGHAMI.
HYDRUS STOKESII.
GONIONOTUS PLUMBEUS.
INSECTS.
INSECTS. PLATE 1.
INSECTS. PLATE 2.
INSECTS. PLATE 3.
CONTENTS OF
VOLUME 2.
CHAPTER 2.1.
Leave Port Essington.
Clarence Strait.
Hope Inlet.
Shoal Bay.
Ian for Observations.
Explore a new Opening.
Talc Head.
Port Darwin.
Continue Exploration.
Mosquitoes and Sandflies.
Nature of the Country.
Its parched appearance.
Large ant's nest.
Return to Shoal Bay.
Visit from the Natives.
Remarks.
Their teeth perfect.
Rite of Circumcision.
Observations on the Migrations of the Natives.
Theory of an Inland Sea.
Central Desert.
Salt water drunk by Natives.
Modes of procuring water.
Survey the harbour.
Natives on a raft.
Anecdote.
Bynoe Harbour.
Well.
Brilliant Meteors.
Natives on Point Emery.
Their surprise at the well.
Importance of water.
Anecdote.
Languages of Australia.
Specimens.
Remarks.
Leave Port Darwin.
Tides.
Squall.
Visit Port Patterson.
Leave.
Examine opening to the south-west.
Table Hill.
McAdam Range.
Adventure with an Alligator.
Exploring party.
Discovery of the Victoria.
Ascend the river.
Appearance of the Country.
Fitzmaurice River.
Indian Hill.
The Beagle taken up the river.
CHAPTER 2.2.
Exploration of the Victoria.
First appearance of Sea Range.
Curiosity Peak.
Appearance of Country from.
Whirlwind Plains.
Encounter with an Alligator.
His capture and description.
Cross Whirlwind Plains.
White and black ducks.
Kangaroos.
Enter hilly country.
Meet the boats.
Thunderstorm.
Carry boats over shoals.
New birds.
Reach Hopeless.
Progress of boats arrested.
Reconnoitre the river.
Prospect from View Hill.
Preparation for pedestrian excursion.
Leave Reach Hopeless to explore the upper part of the river.
Native village.
Squall.
Mussel Bend.
Meet Natives.
Successful fishing.
Party distressed.
Thirsty Flat.
Tortoise Reach.
Singular appearance of the ranges.
Effect of the great heat.
One man knocked up.
Approach of natives.
Preparation for defence.
Appearance of the natives.
Move further up the river.
Emu Plains.
Select position for night quarters.
Upward course of the Victoria.
Commence return.
Kangaroo shot.
Wickham Heights.
New Tortoise.
Lucky Valley.
Race was with a native.
Meet his tribe.
They make off.
Hard day's work.
Quarters for the night.
Return to Reach Hopeless.
CHAPTER 2.3.
VICTORIA RIVER.
Proceed down the river from
Reach Hopeless.
Meet watering party.
One of the men deserts.
Kangaroo shooting.
The writer left to complete survey of river.
Silk cotton-tree.
Fertility of Whirlwind Plains.
Attempt of one of the crew to jump overboard.
Reach the Ship.
Suffer from sore eyes.
Lieutenant Emery finds water.
Geological specimens.
Bird's Playhouse.
Tides.
Strange weather.
Range of Barometer.
Accounted for by proximity of Port Essington.
Hurricane.
Effects of the latter.
Dreary country behind Water Valley.
Fruitless attempt to weigh ship's anchors.
Obliged to slip from both of them.
Proceed down the river.
Complete survey of Main Channel.
Visit south Entrance Point of river.
Discover a number of dead turtles.
Cross over to Point Pearce.
Mr. Bynoe shoots a new finch.
The Author speared.
Pursued by natives.
Escape.
Flight of natives.
Armed party pursue them.
Night of suffering.
General description of the Victoria.
Gouty-stem tree and fruit.
CHAPTER 2.4.
VICTORIA RIVER TO SWAN RIVER.
Leave Point Pearce.
Error in position of Cape Rulhieres.
Obtain soundings on supposed Sahul Shoal.
Discover a shoal patch on it.
Ascertain extent of bank of soundings off the Australian shore.
Strange winds in Monsoon.
See Scott's Reef.
Discover error in its position.
Make Depuch Island.
Prevalence of westerly winds near it.
Sperm whales.
Tedious passage.
Death and burial of the ship's cook.
Anecdotes of his life.
Good landfall.
Arrival at Swan River.
Find Colony improved.
Hospitality of Colonists.
Lieutenant Roe's account of his rescuing Captain Grey's party.
Burial of Mr. Smith.
Hurricane at Shark's Bay.
Observations on dry appearance of Upper Swan.
Unsuccessful cruise of Champion.
Visit Rottnest.
Fix on a hill for the site of a Lighthouse.
Aboriginal convicts.
Protectors of natives.
American whalers.
Miago.
Trees of Western Australia.
On the safety of Gage Roads.
CHAPTER 2.5.
Sail from Swan River.
Search for the supposed Turtle-dove Shoal.
Approach to Houtman's Abrolhos.
Find an anchorage.
View of the Lagoon.
Guano.
Remnants of the wreck of the Batavia.
Pelsart Group.
Visit the Main.
Geelvink Channel.
Enter Champion Bay.
Appearance of the Country.
Striking resemblance of various portions of the coast of Australia.
Leave Champion Bay.
Coast to the northward.
Resume our examination of the Abrolhos.
Easter Group.
Good Friday Harbour.
Lizards on Rat Island.
Coral formation.
Snapper Bank.
Zeewyk Passage.
Discoveries on Gun Island.
The Mangrove Islets.
Singular Sunset.
Heavy gale.
Wallaby Islands.
Flag Hill.
Slaughter Point.
Observations of Mr. Bynoe on the Marsupiata.
General character of the reefs.
Tidal observations.
Visit North Island.
Leave Houtman's Abrolhos.
General observations.
Proceed to Depuch Island.
Drawings on the rocks.
Native youth.
New bird and kangaroo.
Effects of Mirage.
Examine coast to the Turtle Isles.
Geographe Shoals.
Number of turtles.
Bedout Island.
Scott's Reef.
Approach to Timor.
Pulo Douw.
Scene on entering Coepang Bay.
Surprise of Swan River native.
Visit to the Resident.
His stories.
Fort Concordia.
Second visit to the Resident.
The Timorees.
Arrive at Pritie.
Description of the country.
Muster of the shooting party.
Success of the excursion.
The Javanese Commandant.
Character of the Timorees.
Dutch settlement in New Guinea.
Leave Coepang.
Island of Rottee.
Tykal Inlet.
Inhabitants of Polo Douw.
CHAPTER 2.6.
Sail from Rottee.
Search for shoal.
Dampier's Archipelago.
Examination of coast.
Strange weather.
Natives.
Passage between Delambre and Huiy Islands.
Proceed to Montebello Isles.
Description of them.
Barrow's Island.
Tryal Rocks.
New kangaroo.
Abundance of turtle.
New wallaby.
Sail for Swan River.
Find Ritchie's Reef.
Islands between Barrow's and North-West Cape.
Table of soundings.
Swan River Native.
Anchor under Rottnest.
Vocabulary.
Erect beacons.
Bad weather.
Habits of a native dog.
Geological observations.
Sail from Swan River.
Error in position of Cape Naturaliste.
King George's Sound.
Appearance of Bald Head.
Princess Royal Harbour.
Origin of settlement.
Town of Albany.
Salubrity of climate.
Excursion into interior.
Course a kangaroo.
Pitfalls.
Herds of kangaroos.
Rich country.
The Hay River.
Return to Albany.
Departure for South Australia.
Discover an Island.
Death of a seaman.
Position of Neptune Isles.
Kangaroo, Althorp and Quoin Islands.
Holdfast Road.
Adelaide.
Description of country.
Governor Gawler's policy.
Visit the Port.
Mr. Eyre's expedition.
Hardships of Overlanders.
Cannibalism.
Meet Captain Sturt.
Native schools.
System of education.
Sail for Sydney.
Squalls.
Error in coast.
Bass Strait.
Arrive at Sydney.
CHAPTER 2.7.
Land Sales.
Unsettled boundaries.
New Zealand.
Hunter River.
Midnight alarm.
Ludicrous scene.
Changes in Officers of ship.
Leave Sydney.
Port Stephens.
Corrobory.
Gale at Cape Upstart.
Magnetical Island.
Halifax Bay.
Astonish a Native.
Description of country.
Correct chart.
Restoration Island.
Picturesque arrival.
Interview with the Natives from Torres Strait.
Their weapons.
Shoal near Endeavour River.
Discover good passage through Endeavour Strait.
Booby Island.
New birds.
The Painted Quail.
CHAPTER 2.8. GULF
OF CARPENTARIA.
Leave Booby Island.
Eastern shore of Gulf.
Van Diemen's Inlet.
Exploration of.
Party of Natives.
Level country.
Tides.
Visit Bountiful Islands.
Description of them.
Sail for Sweers Island.
Investigator Road.
Natives.
Locusts.
Record of the Investigator's visit.
Dig a well.
Boats explore island and coast to the westward.
Sweers and Bentinck Islands.
Tides.
Take ship over to the main.
Another boat expedition leaves.
Ship proceeds to the head of the Gulf.
Discovery and exploration of Disaster Inlet.
Narrow escape.
Description of Interior.
Wild Fowl.
Explore coast to the eastward.
Inlets.
Discover the Flinders.
The Cuckoo.
Ascent of the river.
Night scene.
Burial tree.
Remarks.
Return to the ship.
Exploration of south-western part of Gulf.
Large inlets discovered.
CHAPTER 2.9. GULF
OF CARPENTARIA.
Boat expedition.
Explore an opening.
Discovery of the Albert.
Natives.
Picturesque Scenery.
Hope Reach.
Birds and Fishes.
Upper Branch.
Beauty of the Landscape.
Land excursion.
The Plains of Promise.
Halt the party and proceed alone.
Description of the country.
Return down the Albert.
Mouth of River.
Arrive at Van Diemen's Inlet.
Find Mr. Fitzmaurice severely wounded.
General result of the survey of the Gulf.
Winds and Temperature.
Booby Island.
Endeavour Strait.
Reach Port Essington.
CHAPTER 2.10.
INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO.
Leave Port Essington.
Dobbo Island.
Visit from the Schoolmaster.
Church.
Trade of the Arrou Islands.
Their productions.
Visit from Natives.
The Banda Group.
Penal Settlement.
Adventures of a Javanese.
Captain de Stuers.
Native dance and sports.
Nutmeg Plantations.
Mode of preserving the fruit.
Amboyna.
Visit a natural grotto.
Sail from Amboyna.
Island of Kissa.
Village of Wauriti.
Missionary establishment.
Serwatty Group.
Return to Port Essington.
CHAPTER 2.11.
PORT ESSINGTON AND THE NORTH-WEST COAST.
Appearance of Settlement.
Effects of climate.
Native mother.
Trade in teeth.
Macassar Proas.
Lieutenant Vallack visits the Alligator Rivers.
Interview with Natives.
Prospects of Port Essington.
Lieutenant Stewart's Route.
Climate.
Remarks of Mr. Bynoe.
Harbour of refuge.
Sail from Port Essington.
Sahul Shoal.
Arrive at Coepang.
Timorees.
Sail for North-west Coast.
Strong winds.
Cape Bossut.
Exploration of North-west Coast.
View of Interior.
Birds.
Solitary Island.
Visit the Shore.
Amphinome Shoals.
Bedout Island.
Breaker Inlet.
Exmouth Gulf.
Arrive at Swan River.
CHAPTER 2.12.
Reported Harbour.
Set out for Australind.
The Grass-tree.
Correspondence with Mr. Clifton, etc.
Sail from Gage Road.
Examination of coast.
Reach Champion Bay.
Visit Mount Fairfax and Wizard Peak.
Arid nature of country.
Want of water.
Native Grave.
The Greenough river.
Natives.
Leave Champion Bay.
Koombanah Bay.
Naturaliste Reef.
Reach South Australia.
Port Adelaide.
Proposed Railroad.
Visit Mount Barker.
Encounter Bay.
Native fishing.
Return to Adelaide.
Sail from South Australia.
Portland Bay.
Squatters.
Tour in the interior.
Fertile country.
View from the Sugarloaf.
Visit Cape Bridgewater.
Sail for Hobart.
Liberality of Sir John Franklin.
Atmospheric changes.
Arrive at Sydney.
CHAPTER 2.13.
Exploration of Interior.
Twofold Bay.
Survey of Bass Strait.
Dangerous situation of the Beagle.
Kent and Hogan Groups.
Gipps Land.
Wilson's Promontory.
The Tamar.
Eastern entrance of Strait.
Steam communication between India and Australia.
New Guinea.
Straitsmen.
North coast of Tasmania.
Aborigines.
Port Phillip.
Directions for ships passing King Island.
Complete survey of Bass Strait.
Farewell to Sydney.
Moreton Bay.
The Comet.
State of Tasmania, or Van Diemen's Land.
Lighthouses in Bass Strait.
CHAPTER 2.14.
AUSTRALIA TO ENGLAND.
Sail from Tasmania.
The South-west Cape.
Monument to Flinders.
Rottnest Island.
Lighthouse.
Penal Establishment.
Longitude of Fremantle.
Final departure from Western Australia.
Rodrigue Island.
Effects of a hurricane at Mauritius.
The crew and passengers of a foundered vessel saved.
Bourbon.
Madagascar.
Simon's Bay.
Deep sea soundings.
Arrival in England.
Take leave of the Beagle.
The Surveying service.
APPENDIX.
WINDS AND WEATHER ON THE
WESTERN AND NORTHERN COASTS OF AUSTRALIA. BY COMMANDER J.C. WICKHAM,
R.N.
LIST OF
ILLUSTRATIONS.
VOLUME 2.
MESSRS.
FITZMAURICE AND KEYS DANCING FOR THEIR LIVES.
FIRST APPEARANCE OF SEA RANGE.
HEAD AND FEET OF ALLIGATOR.
KILLING AN ALLIGATOR, VICTORIA RIVER.
WICKHAM HEIGHTS FROM TORTOISE REACH.
CAPTAIN STOKES SPEARED AT POINT PEARCE.
GOUTY-STEM TREE.
FRUIT OF GOUTY-STEM TREE.
VIEWS OF MORESBY'S RANGE, SEA RANGE, AND CAPE
BEDFORD.
ANCIENT DUTCH GUN.
NATIVE DRAWINGS.
COEPANG FROM THE ANCHORAGE.
PASSING BETWEEN BALD HEAD AND VANCOUVER REEF.
ENTRANCE OF VAN DIEMEN'S INLET.
INTERESTING TREE.
BURIAL REACH, FLINDERS RIVER.
UPWARD VIEW OF HOPE REACH, ALBERT RIVER.
FIRST VIEW OF THE PLAINS OF PROMISE, ALBERT RIVER.
LAST VIEW OF THE PLAINS OF PROMISE, ALBERT RIVER.
APPROACH TO PORTLAND BAY.
DANGEROUS SITUATION OF BEAGLE.
DEVIL'S TOWER.
KILLING A KANGAROO.
HUMMOCK ISLAND.